Quotation from: The Cruise of the SnarkWritten by: Jack London |
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But the transformation from a smooth undulation to a breaker is not abrupt except where the bottom shoals abruptly. Say the bottom shoals gradually for from quarter of a mile to a mile, then an equal distance will be occupied by the transformation. Such a bottom is that off the beach of Waikiki, and it produces a splendid surf- riding surf. One leaps upon the back of a breaker just as it begins to break, and stays on it as it continues to break all the way in to shore.
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| Part of a series of experiments in web preservation under the direction of Michael L. Nelson, Ph.D. |